Ups and Downs

I must confess, this past month has been pretty crazy; an emotional
roller coaster. I think that might be why I have steered away from
posting. I didn't want to drag anyone through it.

No, it's nothing major. No serious trauma, no big break throughs. It's
probably simply the fact I have been away from friends and family for
six months, the frustration of working in post-conflict, and the fact
I haven't taken a day off in weeks. Honestly, nothing major, which
truthfully makes me feel a bit silly that I have been on this roller
coaster at all.

A few weeks ago I had to go to Kampala to renew my volunteer visa.
Simple right? It took two weeks, returning to the office every day to
fill another request or hear "come back tomorrow". During those two
weeks a group of guys tried to rob me (got my watch and my gum of all
things); I was given a bogus ticket by a police officer for a fee that
was equal to about 3months of his salary (I bribed my way out of it,
paying less than 1% of what he asked for); I was cornered by another
two officers and told to pay or they wouldn't let me leave the
university campus (I was furious and maybe too boldly pushed past them
and made it out without paying anything); I was told I couldn't have a
visa extension because I made an error on my application – no room for
discussion, case closed. I'm embarrassed to say that on that last one
I lost it. It was the culmination of all those things and that poor
immigration officer got an earful. I told him how I was just in the
country trying to help in the north and that because of his obstinacy
the project would fail and he could explain that to the women and
children who would be left with nothing. I stormed out of his office
and went to a politician I knew and asked her to help. She did. She
forced the officer to give me what I needed. He was furious, but did
what he was told (she was his big boss after all).

I felt terrible. I felt ashamed of my behaviour. Who was I to get all
bent out of shape over these tiny things? I was alive. I was safe.
That was more than I could say for so many people I knew in the north,
people who have to deal with this stuff, and worse, every day. I was
so fortunate and yet I somehow felt slighted and targeted.

I sat down in the shade of mango tree and closed my eyes. Breathe….

I went back and apologized to the immigration officer.

I headed back to my hotel in order to prepare for the 7 hour bus ride
back to the north. On my way I passed a large group of boda drivers
(motorbike taxis). As usual I heard "Hey Muzungu. We go?" I kept
walking. But in there I heard a voice that sounded familiar yell, "Hey
teacher…." I kept walking though. I heard a bike start up and come up
behind me. "Hey teacher, you OK?" the driver said. I looked over and
it was a boda driver who took me home one night more than a week
before. We had a lovely chat that night about his life and family and
about why I was in Uganda. His name was Makanga. "Get on. I'll take
you home."

I climbed on and had to take some very deep breaths to keep my tears
from flowing. Here was a guy who had almost nothing, was working
nights as a driver to scrape together enough money to pay his kids
school fees, yet he took time out to drive me home because he could
see I was not myself. He wouldn't accept any payment. Just gave me a
hug, wished me well and went back to work.

That's life in Uganda as a foreigner. One minute you are frustrated
and wondering why you are here, venting about the obscene corruption
and inequities, but then the next minute you are being taken to tea by
a local friend and spending the afternoon laughing about the days
absurdities. The day I had my first run in with the police, for
example, the staff at a restaurant I used to go to from time to time,
but hadn't been at in more than two months, came running over and all
gave me hugs and welcomed me back to Kampala.

Emotions up and down…up and down…

When I got off the bus in Arua, the clean cool air hitting my face. I
felt better. As I was collecting my bags I saw my good friend Prince
waiting for me with his puppies in hand all wining for me to come over
and play. I laughed and remembered why I love this place.