Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Absence


Ooops. Time flies when your working, travelling, studying, playing... Sorry. I will update the blog shortly with a number of posts I have written in my journal as I moved about without (consistent) internet.

The long and the short of things, I'm fine, but more on that in the coming posts.

Monday, September 21, 2009

What is Peace?

Is it the absence of war, or a reduction in violence? Is it the freedom to live, with access to safe food, water and shelter? Does it mean living without fear?
 
It is the ability to be with family and friends? How about being able to openly love whomever you chose?
 
Or is it the ability to sit quietly in the forest, by a brook, or in a field, listening to the wind, the birds, the insects and amphibians?
 
Perhaps it's meditation and a clear mind?
 
Can you smell peace? Is it the scent of cooking fires roasting the day's food? What about the aroma of new flowers blooming on old trees?
 
Maybe you can hold peace, like a newborn child, or a delicate butterfly?
 
Is the ability to play, to run, to jump, to sit, to smile, a possible option?
 
Or is it the rain after a long drought, or the clear sky after perpetual wetness? The warmth of the sun or the cool of the shade?
 
Perhaps it's simply the ability, the freedom, to ponder the meaning of Peace? 
 
However you define Peace, I wish you well today, this International Day of Peace.

Asienzu's Surprise

The Guinea Fowl we named Asienzu that lives on our compound has been running amok lately. I have been chasing her out of the garden all weekend. She usually obeyed the fence, but strangely this weekend she began flying over it into the garden (I didn't want to tell anyone she flew there or they might clip her wings again). I was perplexed. Did she want the tomatoes that badly?
 
Today, I had to leave the compound for a while, and when I came back I found Asienzu hiding deep in the very bushy tomato plants. But this time I noticed a calm rather than her usual frantic eating. She stayed there for about an hour while the other fowl waited outside the fence patiently. What was happening?
 
After a while, she stood up, stretched her feathers, and proudly displayed her first egg tucked away under the plants. She was thrilled with herself. I was thrilled with her. I had never seen a mostly wild bird lay an egg before.
 
She slowly walked away from the egg, jumped over the fence and joined her waiting friends. I could only imagine that in Guinea Fowl they were all congratulating her.
 
After some mutual preening they prompting went off in search of more food, this time in my other garden, but I didn't have the heart to chase them away. What's one less tomato anyway?

Congratulations, Asienzu!

PS: Asienzu means "peace" in the local language (Lugbara).

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Riots

What an interesting time to be in Uganda. Things are heating up. Last week riots broke out in Kampala. On the surface, the instability appears linked to the fact that the King of Buganda, the Kabaka as he is called here, is being perceived by the president as challenging the power of the presidency.
 
But it's far more complicated and multi-layered.
 
It all started when the Kabaka tried to visit one of the disputed districts of his kingdom, Kayunga District. Kayunga was given to the Buganda kingdom as a "thank you" from the current president for the king's help when the president was a rebel leader trying to take over the government (which he did successfully). But not everyone in Kayunga wants to be part of the Buganda kingdom and some of the Kayunga folks protested his proposed arrival. But then those people who did want him to come fought back with a small riot in Kayunga.
 
But nothing ends with a small riot in Uganda.
 
The president sent extra police to maintain calm and prevent the preparations for the king's arrival citing "instability". This action, however, was viewed as being anti-Kabaka, which actually was partially true (that is a much bigger story that I won't get into). This got Buganda folks very upset, and Kampala is in the heart of Buganda territory. Buganda MPs walked out of parliament demanding an explanation from the president for his anti-Kabaka stance. Then things just exploded, and massive riots broke out all over Kampala and the surrounding areas.
 
If this sounds confusing, it's because the issue is complex. It's not just an issue of the Kabaka going to Kayunga. That was the trigger. What this did was give all the unemployed (I think the last number I saw was something like 50% of population is unemployed), particularly the youth, something to rally behind in order to express their frustration with the government's refusal to take meaningful measures to provide for the average Ugandan.
 
How are these things linked? The government spends tons of money on security, and most of the top military folks are from the president's home town (and were former rebels who helped him get into power). As well, all the top paid non-security positions in Uganda are held by people related to the president or his wife.
 
People are tired of the corruption. Uganda is the 3rd most corrupt government in the world. Uganda is rich compared to most countries in East Africa yet people are starving. People are angry. Mix in territorial and power struggles (i.e. should the monarchy be involved in politics, etc.) and a coming election, and you have more than enough ingredients to create a great deal of instability.
 
He didn't say so, but I am pretty sure the riots and the sudden mobilization of thousands of people scared the president. It should have at least. This is just a small taste of what is to come if he doesn't act appropriately.
 
The next election is in 2011. The last few have been marred with allegations of vote-rigging and corruption, yet the president has refused to take meaningful steps to meet international standards to ensure a free and fair election, despite saying he wants "free and fair elections." Ironically he also said he wouldn't be ready to step down until 2025 – did that mean he wouldn't step down even if voted out? No one knows.
 
What this does mean is that things are going to be pretty crazy in Uganda in the next year and half. My fear is that if people aren't supported before 2011, if people remain starving, unemployed and burdened with the psychosocial issues and trauma from the various wars, things are going to be very, very ugly here.
 
And the ones who will be the most violent will be the youth.
 
My own research in the north has come to the same conclusion – if youth aren't supported soon, they are going to be ready to challenge the government with whatever they've got. 
 
I really hope the government listens this time. Uganda doesn't need more violence.

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Ups and Downs

I must confess, this past month has been pretty crazy; an emotional
roller coaster. I think that might be why I have steered away from
posting. I didn't want to drag anyone through it.

No, it's nothing major. No serious trauma, no big break throughs. It's
probably simply the fact I have been away from friends and family for
six months, the frustration of working in post-conflict, and the fact
I haven't taken a day off in weeks. Honestly, nothing major, which
truthfully makes me feel a bit silly that I have been on this roller
coaster at all.

A few weeks ago I had to go to Kampala to renew my volunteer visa.
Simple right? It took two weeks, returning to the office every day to
fill another request or hear "come back tomorrow". During those two
weeks a group of guys tried to rob me (got my watch and my gum of all
things); I was given a bogus ticket by a police officer for a fee that
was equal to about 3months of his salary (I bribed my way out of it,
paying less than 1% of what he asked for); I was cornered by another
two officers and told to pay or they wouldn't let me leave the
university campus (I was furious and maybe too boldly pushed past them
and made it out without paying anything); I was told I couldn't have a
visa extension because I made an error on my application – no room for
discussion, case closed. I'm embarrassed to say that on that last one
I lost it. It was the culmination of all those things and that poor
immigration officer got an earful. I told him how I was just in the
country trying to help in the north and that because of his obstinacy
the project would fail and he could explain that to the women and
children who would be left with nothing. I stormed out of his office
and went to a politician I knew and asked her to help. She did. She
forced the officer to give me what I needed. He was furious, but did
what he was told (she was his big boss after all).

I felt terrible. I felt ashamed of my behaviour. Who was I to get all
bent out of shape over these tiny things? I was alive. I was safe.
That was more than I could say for so many people I knew in the north,
people who have to deal with this stuff, and worse, every day. I was
so fortunate and yet I somehow felt slighted and targeted.

I sat down in the shade of mango tree and closed my eyes. Breathe….

I went back and apologized to the immigration officer.

I headed back to my hotel in order to prepare for the 7 hour bus ride
back to the north. On my way I passed a large group of boda drivers
(motorbike taxis). As usual I heard "Hey Muzungu. We go?" I kept
walking. But in there I heard a voice that sounded familiar yell, "Hey
teacher…." I kept walking though. I heard a bike start up and come up
behind me. "Hey teacher, you OK?" the driver said. I looked over and
it was a boda driver who took me home one night more than a week
before. We had a lovely chat that night about his life and family and
about why I was in Uganda. His name was Makanga. "Get on. I'll take
you home."

I climbed on and had to take some very deep breaths to keep my tears
from flowing. Here was a guy who had almost nothing, was working
nights as a driver to scrape together enough money to pay his kids
school fees, yet he took time out to drive me home because he could
see I was not myself. He wouldn't accept any payment. Just gave me a
hug, wished me well and went back to work.

That's life in Uganda as a foreigner. One minute you are frustrated
and wondering why you are here, venting about the obscene corruption
and inequities, but then the next minute you are being taken to tea by
a local friend and spending the afternoon laughing about the days
absurdities. The day I had my first run in with the police, for
example, the staff at a restaurant I used to go to from time to time,
but hadn't been at in more than two months, came running over and all
gave me hugs and welcomed me back to Kampala.

Emotions up and down…up and down…

When I got off the bus in Arua, the clean cool air hitting my face. I
felt better. As I was collecting my bags I saw my good friend Prince
waiting for me with his puppies in hand all wining for me to come over
and play. I laughed and remembered why I love this place.

Friday, August 7, 2009

Godfrey

[Note: this is a long, multi-page post]

On Weds, a little boy stood listening intently outside Asianzu House Internet Café trying to figure out where the sounds of the sports game were coming from. He couldn’t see the TV playing a recent football match, but he could hear the cheers and see the faces of others watching it. He peered inside. Of course, like everyone who comes by our discount internet café, we ushered him. He took off his shoes at the entrance and quietly found a spot on the floor next to two strangers who were sitting in chairs. He pulled a mandazi (Ugandan doughnut) out of his pocket, cut into three, and shared it with those around him, making sure he got the smallest piece. One of the men shared his rice with the boy and the boy tried to pay him with the few coins he had left in his grubby, thread bare pockets.

The boy’s name is Godfrey. He had just arrived in Arua Town from a small village 30km away where he had been abandoned some time back. The famine in northern Uganda had hit his village hard. With no food his family had to make tough choices. His mother was brought (possibly bought) into a new family but not allowed to keep her old children, whom she left with her former husband, the children’s father, hoping with one less mouth to feed they would fair better. Being extremely poor, the father was still unable to care for his kids and ended up abandoning them in the village hoping that others would feed and take care of them (which is usually what happens). But right now many people are starving, and five out of the six abandoned children died because of lack of food. At tens years old, Godfrey thought his best chance was to go to the biggest town near by and try to find some work, any work, so he could raise money for food. He found himself in town collecting plastic bottles and raising a miniscule bit of money, which he then used to eat crumbs. On the day we met him, he had made 200 shillings (10 cents) and spent 50 shillings on a tiny 2-inch doughnut, which he then shared with perfect strangers because they had allowed him into what seemed to him to be their home (which is also why he took off his shoes despite the fact everyone was wearing theirs). His clothes were torn, his growth obviously stunted (we all thought he was about seven years old), and his belly was distended.

Here was a child who had lost everything, had been left to fend for himself on the street, was starving, and yet shared his tiny, precious morsal of food with others who were obviously well-fed. He never asked for anything in return. He was different than other kids left of the street. Most have become hard and selfish, particularly since most street youth are picked up fast by gangs or thieves and trained to steal or commit crimes for a “boss”. In return they are given some minimal amount of food or money, and in their group they find some sort of safety from predators. Godfrey, being new on the scene, hadn’t been scooped up yet.

We could all see Godfrey had something different in him. Some light, or spark.

As night came and the café was closing we couldn’t just leave him. We knew he would certainly be picked up by the gangs, and not to mention, we rationalized, a huge storm was coming. We decided to let him sleep in one of our spare rooms in our compound just on the edge of the town, just for one night.

The next morning, well before most were up, he hurried with David, one of our staff, back to the café. He just assumed he was going back on the street and had had one lucky night. But there really is something different about Godfrey and everyone who meets him can see it. Instead of kicking him out, David and the other staff found odd jobs for him to do and gave him food in return. Incredulously, Godfrey still tried to pay for things, handing over his remaining money to the server shyly because he knew the food he had been given was worth more than he had. He still never tried to take anything for free.

During the day, Godfrey and David became friends. Godfrey gave David a nickname of Da Da (the closest local word to David). Godfrey was glued to David’s side. At the end of the night, David couldn’t send Godfrey back out on the street, so once again he brought him home. This time, Godfrey knew he was getting special treatment and busied himself around the compound trying to clean, put things away, or whatever he thought he could do. He even washed himself carefully to make sure he didn’t dirty the place. He was polite, quite, but always ready to help.

Godfrey’s Second Night

David and I were surprised that Godfrey was so alert and awake at midnight. He just wanted to play. I admit, being a kid at heart myself, I did probably make him a bit hyper as I played a two-person, musicless version of musical chairs, along with other rambunctious games (wouldn’t anyone?). But even when we were all obviously tired, he still seemed to constantly avoid the room we had for him. We were confused. Each time we would open the door and prepare the room, he would stand at the door, wait until we left the room and close the door again from the outside. The language barrier was all too obvious. We were saying goodnight but he just kept following us.

Finally, at 1am, David and I were exasperated and needed sleep so we more forcefully said good night and went to our respective rooms, leaving him outside (he knew his room). I looked over my shoulder and Godfrey way still standing by his door, refusing to go in. At this point I figured he was just being stubborn.

Exhausted, I crawled into my bed and closed my eyes.

Before I feel asleep I heard noises outside my room. Coughing and shuffling. I knew it was Godfrey trying to get my attention. I quietly asked if he was OK, but his answer was long and complicated and I couldn’t catch it (my Lugbara is still not that good). He asked me if he could come in and I said yes, thinking I would at least let him sleep on the floor. I really needed sleep by this point.

When he got in the room, he asked if he could borrow my flashlight (an item that totally amazed him) and he looked around the room. He checked in all the cupboards, in the corners, behind jackets and under the bed. Once he was satisfied, he handed back the flashlight. I handed him a sheet and said goodnight. He waited standing next to my bed. Staring. Then it dawned on me. Children in Uganda never sleep alone. Safety in numbers. Even most adults don’t (the whole family sleeps together on a papyrus mat on the floor). He was terrified of sleeping alone, and here we were trying to get him to sleep in a strange room, in a strange compound, with strange people, and asking him to sleep alone. On top of that, there are old local (Ugandan) horror stories of strange white people (albinos) steeling children, locking them away and eating them as part of some dark magic (kind of like our Handsel and Grettal). I can only imagine his fear.

All I said was OK, and before I could blink my eyes he had slid under the mosquito net and climbed onto my smaller-than-a-single sized bed. He wrapped himself in his own blanket like a cocoon and nestled up next to me. Within seconds he was fast asleep.

I think he only work up once, near morning when the poor little guy fell out of bed having never slept in a bed off the floor before. The look of shock on his face was both hilarious and endearing.

As day broke, he was ready to go outside and play. Before the sun rose he was already playing with my cell phone by looking at the pictures and having fun pushing the buttons. I was still groggy from a relatively sleepless night. As soon as we got outside it was as though someone had pushed the “high-speed” button. He began climbing up poles, running among the paths, kicking a football (soccer ball) around, and just plain being a kid. Despite my tiredness, it was endearing to watch.

It was sometime about then when it hit me, why did he sleep the first night in the spare room and not the second?

I spoke to the night guard. He told me that on the first night, he told Godfrey to “stay in that room and not come out until morning or the dogs will get you.” Yikes! We don’t have dogs, but the neighbours do and I can see why he would have been too scared to see if the dogs were at our house or the neighbours (they often bark in the night). Poor guy. Obviously on the second night he realized there were no dogs.

I am sure there will be many more stories to tell about Godfrey, and unfortunately with this famine, there will probably be many more children like Godfrey coming into town.

Godfrey is one of the lucky ones though. Ayiko, the founder of Peace For All International, and his wife have agreed to take in Godfrey, and all of us volunteer staff have agreed to try and help with his costs by donating each month. Ayiko, born in this same area of Uganda, was once a street kid too in Sudan (having to escape there after Idi Amin was overthrown), so he couldn’t let Godfrey go. Ayiko was rescued by a very special family who helped him get to a refugee camp and go through school when he was about the same age. Later he was rescued by the UN and sent to Canada as a refugee, where he then became a Canadian citizen. Now he is back in Uganda trying to help his people through Peace For All International (www.peaceforallinternational.org).

… and Godfrey is one of his people.

PS: I purposefully didn’t include a photo of Godfrey in order to respect his privacy.

Monday, July 27, 2009

Pader Part II

For the past week I have been out in the villages of northern Uganda (Pader District) doing the data collection for my thesis. This time, however, I opted for local transport deep into the heart of the former war torn region – by bicycle.

For those of us who were raised in peaceful times and places, it’s hard to imagine the terror that the Acholi (the people of Pader) faced and how they continue to struggle with the psychosocial impacts. For example, it only mildly occurred to me as I set out for home 20km away just as the sun was setting that only a few years ago, such an endeavour would have meant almost certain death by the LRA. At first I wondered why people today were horrified that I would start a ride at that hour (people offered me spaces in their homes to avoid riding), beyond the usual fact that you simply can’t see anything after dark as there is no electricity and the roads are littered with potholes, domestic animals and other common hazards (including the odd speeding vehicle).

The road I was travelling, and had been travelling much of the week, was the site of some of the bloodiest days in recent Ugandan history. It was one of the areas that the Ugandan forces curiously didn’t defend, some locals arguing that it was because it was considered beyond hope and therefore not worth risking the loss of soldiers. As a result, nighttime was a period of sleepless terror. Homes were raided, children were abducted, and in many cases the children were also forced to watch or participate in the brutal killing of their parents or community members. Anyone on the roads even just as the sun was setting would surely have been slaughtered. In fact, rising early in the morning would reveal a path of dismembered bodies along the road of those who chose to risk travelling in darkness when they thought they would be able to pass undetected, or because they simply were caught out when darkness fell.

As I rode through the encroaching darkness, I remembered the stories I had heard and thought how liberating it must be for people to now be able to have cooking fires burning in the evening.

On this evening, I watched as large groups of women carried water and goods on their heads as they headed home. They laughed and joked with each other, shouting funny comments at me as I passed. Men huddled around a candle in some of the villages drinking and playing cards, or shouting and laughing about life’s adventures. Children still ran about playing tag or screaming “Mundu!” (white person in the local language) as I passed (we really do glow in the dark by comparison because people could easily identify me from so far when I could barely see the road in front of me). Life was loud at this time as most people finally had some free time after a long hard day. Even the night animals sang loudly and cheerfully.

It was just more evidence of Ugandan’s resilience and desire to move beyond the past.

The moon was rising and the stars were brilliant. Lightening was flashing off in the distance signalling much needed rain.

In short, it was simply beautiful. Peaceful. I rode on, taking my time.

Uganda has come so far. While poverty and many of it’s subsequent issues are still prevalent, on this night, those issues seemed to disappear and I fell in love with this magical land once again.